This might well be the best salmon I’ve ever tasted. Yesterday was our wedding anniversary, and I wanted to make something special. Since I’m a fish-and-vegetarian and the primary cook in my household, my red meat-loving husband rarely gets to indulge his taste for steak. I promised him a filet mignon – my first! – but wanted to be able to save time and share flavors by using the same preparation for a chunk of fish. The result was outstanding, and I still can’t believe how simple it was. Traditional Bordelaise uses beef marrow and demiglace; since I don’t eat red meat, I had to improvise. I’m sure French sauciers would be horrified, but don’t tell - it was delicious. The fish can be prepared this way without the sauce, as well.

For the fish, you will need:

• 1 lb. fresh or thawed wild Alaskan salmon fillet – I used a gorgeous chunk of flash-frozen sockeye
• 1 T Dijon mustard
• 2 T kosher horseradish
• fresh thyme
• fresh rosemary
• salt and pepper
• olive oil

For the sauce, you will need:

• 1 c red wine
• a splash of port
• 1 shallot, minced
• a few sprigs of fresh thyme
• a bay leaf
• 1 c broth (I used unsalted vegetable bouillon)
• 2 T butter
• salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 500. Rinse the fish under cold running water. Pour olive oil into your palm and rub it all over the fish. Set the fillet skin-side down on a sheet of plastic wrap, and then smear the Dijon and horseradish all over the top.

2. Finely chop the rosemary and thyme and coat the surface of the fish with the herbs. Shake salt over the top, and then cover in freshly cracked black pepper. Wrap the fish tightly in the plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour.

3. In a saucepan, combine the wine, port, shallot, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer until the wine is nearly all evaporated. Remove the thyme and leaf, and stir in broth. Use only the amount of broth needed to equal the sauce you want; Bordelaise has a strong flavor, and you won’t need much. Set the sauce aside.

4. Cover the bottom of an ovenproof skillet with olive oil and heat to medium high. Unwrap the salmon and sear it skin-side up for a couple of minutes, so the crust seals in the natural juice of the fish.

5. Flip the fillet so that the skin side is down, and transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake at high heat for around 10 minutes, checking periodically for doneness. Cooking time will depend upon the thickness of the fillet; be careful not to over cook. Remove from heat and let rest while you finish the sauce.

6. Reheat the sauce and add butter. Whisk it all together, and finish with salt and pepper to taste.

7. When you serve the fish, it should slide easily off its skin onto a plate. Spoon the sauce directly onto warmed dishes beneath the salmon, and then drizzle it over the top.

I served this with garlic mashed potatoes, braised leeks with chantrelle mushrooms and spinach, and a dry Spanish red. Enjoy!

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A coalition of Alaskan fishermen, Alaska natives, and conservation groups are coming together this week at the Seattle Fish Expo to urge President-elect Barack Obama to re-establish protection of the fishing waters in Bristol Bay and parts of the Bering Sea. These waters account for over 40% of the U.S. national seafood harvest, a $2 billion fishing industry, and are rich with a number of commercially important species, including halibut, pollock, cod, flatfish, herring, king crab, and the world’s largest sockeye salmon run.

These fishing grounds had long been protected – until 2007, when the Bush administration lifted the ban on offshore oil leasing. The Minerals Management Service (MMS) has scheduled a lease sale in these waters for 2011, even though the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) has warned against it, fearing destruction of natural habitat and subsequent damage to regional economies. The sale is opposed by a number of diverse groups, including the Alaska Marine Conservation Council and the World Wildlife Fund. Others cite the infamously bad weather as an argument against drilling, suggesting that the operations would be too dangerous for employees and too unstable for safe oil containment purposes. The MMS has refused a public forum on the topic. Meanwhile, the Alaska Independent Fishermen’s Marketing Association (AIFMA) and others continue to fight for the reinstatement of the protection of the region.

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Tighter budgets can still produce wonderful seafood meals.  This preparation is relatively simple and quick, and can make use of leftovers: Friday night’s mashed potatoes and broiled salmon find new life in these savory cakes.  They can stand alone as an entree, or make great appetizers for group get-togethers.  They can be made ahead of time and reheated.  The original recipe appeared in the New York Times; I have adapted it and added some healthier touches and kick.

You will need:

• 3 bunches fresh spinach or other greens (if you use a robust winter green like kale or chard, remove the stems and thicker ribs)
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
• 2 c leftover mashed potatoes
• 8 oz. cooked wild Alaskan salmon, flaked
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 2 tsp salt
• several cranks of freshly ground pepper
• ¾ c flour
• 2 ½ c panko bread crumbs
• ½  onion, finely chopped
• a few healthy shakes of ground cayenne
• olive oil

For the sauce, you will need:

• 4 or 5 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 c sour cream or Greek yogurt
• a handful of fresh dill, minced
• pinch of nutmeg
• a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce
• zest of one lemon
• salt and pepper to taste
• lemon wedges (as garnish)

1.  Wash and coarsely chop the spinach.  Sautee the spinach, onions and garlic together until the spinach is completely wilted and the onions are translucent and golden.  Set the mixture aside to cool.

2.  In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, flaked salmon, 1 cup of the panko crumbs, 2 beaten eggs, salt, pepper, and cayenne.

3.  Squeeze as much liquid as you can out of the spinach.  Let it rest a moment and then squeeze it again.  Add the spinach to the potato-fish mixture and mix well.  Use your hands to make sure it’s evenly combined and there are no fish bones or potato lumps.

4.  Set up an assembly line: line up three wide bowls, and put the remaining panko crumbs in one, the rest of the eggs in the middle one, and the flour in the other.

5.  Form the salmon mixture into small patties, around 3 inches wide and ¾ inch thick.

6.  Drop each patty in the flour, coating it thoroughly.  Then, dip it in the eggs.  Finally, dredge it through the panko crumbs so that it is completely covered.  Reform and set the finished patties aside on a baking sheet, covering them with plastic wrap or a damp towel.  Let them rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 4 hours.

7.  In the meantime, make the dill cream by combining the yogurt or sour cream with the rest of the ingredients.  Be sure to taste it and adjust the seasonings; you may want to add a small splash of vinegar or a pinch of sugar, depending on the acidity of the yogurt or sour cream.

8.  To cook the cakes, cover the bottom of a heavy skillet with olive oil and heat it to medium-high.  Cook the cakes in batches, turning them once to brown them evenly.  Drain them on paper towels or newspaper and keep them in a warm oven as you cook the rest.  Serve hot with the dill cream and wedges of lemon.