Consumer consciousness has come a long way from the days when “organic” meant a small, grumpy apple with worm spots or impossible-to-find specialty grains sold in bins at the rear of health food stores. The Green movement, increased education about health and agricultural practices, and the undeniable boost of becoming chic have all helped to elevate the demand for organic goods - and not just in the produce aisle. Dairy goods, grains, wines, meat products, clothing, even paper products and inks can carry the “organic” label, certified by dubiously rigorous state- and third-party organizations. This year, over $23 billion worth of organic goods were sold in the U.S. alone.
However, the USDA, the Organic Trade Association, and a variety of environmental and fishery groups are struggling to reach an agreement on how organic certification can be extended to include seafood. With meats, poultry, and dairy products, the primary issue is what the animals themselves eat: is the feed organically grown and processed, or not? Because wild fish, arguably the most healthful and, in a sense, “cleanest” varieties of seafood available on the market, eat wild food in wild waters, they cannot be said to be “organic” in the same way that free-range chickens on organic-feed diets lay “organic” eggs.
Farmed fish, on the other hand, which live in close-quartered pens or tanks, have mushier flesh due to a lack of wild-water exercise, and are usually genetically similar to one another (and therefore more susceptible to disease), do not find food on their own. Rather, they are fed by their “farmers,” and so, in some cases, could potentially be called “organic” according to the conditions set as precedent by other meat industries. This would hold true for vegetarian fish only, of course, such as tilapia or catfish. Carnivorous fish, like salmon, couldn’t be categorized as “organic” under these rules unless the fish they ate had in turn been farmed and fed organic feed.
The National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) has recently issued a recommendation claiming that certain feeds and net pens be included under the definition of organic foods. This decision was lauded by fish farmers eager to capitalize on the public demand for organic products, but has been severely criticized by fisheries, consumer activists, and environmental groups looking to support wild fisheries and maintain the purity of the organic label. Other issues include leniency in the recommendations regarding the percentage of organic matter included in the feeds - other industries are required to use 100% organic feed materials, while this would not necessarily apply to the fish standards. While no official decision has yet been made on the issue, the USDA is taking it under consideration; finalizing the standards could take a few more years.
This is a gorgeous, healthful take on a preparation originally intended for sirloin steak. Fresh or frozen tuna fillets have the density and meaty flavor to make this really outstanding, although flaked salmon could be used in a pinch, with a slightly different, more casual presentation. This is a filling, robust stand-alone meal, and perfect for low-carb diets, although it makes for a substantial starter, as well, before creamier dishes like risotto or gnocchi.
a head of nice lettuce: either red leaf, romaine, or butter lettuce - this can be jazzed up with the addition of arugula or mache to nice effect
3-4 medium beets, peeled, quartered, and sliced
thyme
chili powder
olive oil
salt and pepper
capers
olives - kalamata or nicoise
1/2 yellow or white sweet onion, cut into 1/2 inch slices
a large chunk of good quality bleu cheese; roquefort or stilton will work
For the dressing:
olive oil
juice of 1 lemon - I prefer the unusual flavor of meyer lemons for this recipe, although any juicy old lemon will do
balsamic vinegar
4-5 cloves fresh garlic, peeled, smashed, and minced
fresh or dried thyme
a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce
salt and pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 425. Toss the beets with some olive oil, salt, thyme, and chili powder in a cast-iron skillet or roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven and let the beets roast, checking occasionally and turning them to ensure even cooking.
2. Mix up the dressing. Whisk all the ingredients together in a medium bowl and let the flavors meld.
3. Rinse the fish under cold running water, season liberally with salt, and place on a plate. Grind black pepper over the top - enough to cover the entire fillet, then flip it over and do the same for the other side. Press the pepper into the surface of the fillet. Repeat for both pieces of fish.
4. Heat some olive oil in a heavy skillet and sear the tuna. Watch the sides of the fish to see how far the heat has penetrated - you don’t want it to cook all the way through. A few minutes on a side should be plenty. When the fish is cooked, remove it from heat and let it stand a few minutes to cool. Then, carefully slice the fillets into thin pieces, cutting with the grain.
5. Add the slices of fish to the bowl of dressing and toss so that all the pieces are well coated. Let sit to marinate as you prepare the salads.
6. Rinse the lettuce and drain it well, drying it on paper towels or using a salad spinner. Tear or chop into bite-sized pieces and arrange on large salad plates. Place the onions, capers, and olives into the salad, tucking pieces under bits of lettuce and otherwise distributing everything evenly and attractively.
7. Once the beets are roasted, spread them out on a plate and stick it in the freezer or fridge to cool quickly. When the beets are cooled, add them to the salad plates in the same fashion, arranging the ingredients.
8. Finally, add the tuna to the plates. Some people like to curl a few pieces into a rosette for the top, or arrange slices in a circular fan pattern. Others like to loop the tuna in and out of the lettuce as if it were stitching the whole salad together.
9. Crumble the bleu cheese all over the salads, and then finish by drizzling the remaining dressing over the top of everything.
Serve with crusty bread and a bottle of wine, or rice crackers and pomegranate-tonic spritzers with lime.
The chemical melamine has been found in an increasing number of products imported to the United States from China, including milk products, baby formula, and pet foods. Melamine, primarily used in the production of certain plastics, glues, and flame retardants, has been found to cause kidney problems, eye, skin, or respiratory irritation, and reproductive damage, and is carcinogenic with prolonged exposure.
A recent report suggests that melamine may have been used to “bulk up” certain farmed fish foods, increasing the likelihood that the toxins will be passed on to human consumers. Unlike cattle or pigs, who metabolize the chemical after eating it, melamine residues are found in the flesh of fish who have consumed it, and thus may pass the toxicity on to humans.
Chinese fish exports include certain frozen shrimp, tilapia, catfish, salmon, and other seafood products. While the FDA has not yet made an official statement regarding the potential for contamination, consumers are cautioned to take care when purchasing frozen fish of unknown or Chinese origin. While many fish importers willingly test for melamine in their products, this testing is not yet required by the FDA.
Yum. Every once in a while, it’s nice to have a hearty stew you can throw together in under 20 minutes. We just went through the winter storm of the century, and this dish kept us warm on the coldest nights. I definitely recommend tracking down a frozen package of spiced Indian naan - toss a few in the oven to warm and serve them with this soup. The flavors mix beautifully and work perfectly for sopping up the last bits in the bowl.
You will need:
a medium onion, chopped
5 or 6 cloves of garlic, peeled, smashed, and sliced
a toe of fresh ginger, peeled and minced
a bay leaf
a large can of crushed tomatoes
a can of chickpeas
vegetable broth (either in paste, cube, or liquid form)
chili powder
hot sauce (I like Secret Aardvark habanero, but Sriracha or Tabasco work fine; Tabasco adds a lot of vinegar, which I’m not crazy about, but many cooks love)
1-2 T curry powder
cumin
2 cans of good quality, solid-pack tuna in water; for a real treat, sear fresh tuna fillets, slice, and add them at the last instant.
sour cream
1. Saute the onions and garlic in a soup pot with a little olive oil. Add the ginger and bayleaf, and keep frying until everything is fragrant and the onions begin to turn golden.
2. Add the cans of chickpeas and tomatoes, then stir in a can of broth (or water and bouillon base). Season liberally with chili powder, curry, cumin, and hot sauce. Adjust seasonings according to taste.
3. Let the stew simmer for 10 minutes or so to let it thicken, then add the tuna. Turn the heat low; the stew is ready as soon as the fish is heated through. Serve in warmed bowls or dishes with a large dollop of sour cream in the center, and a pile of hot naan.
If you’re feeling adventurous, try adding clams or rockfish in place of the tuna. Be careful not to overcook.
This is a hearty, earthy dish excellent for cold winter nights and for high-protein, low-fat diets (this preparation gets fewer than 24% of its calories from fat). Any thick fillet of white fish will work - try cod, rockfish, or sea bass - but halibut is perfect as it absorbs flavors from the sauce and isn’t too oily. Serve this for guests or family with a sliced, warm baguette and a simple green salad with a bite: add arugula, radicchio, and shaved pecorino romano cheese and dress with lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and herbs.
1. Heat a small amount of olive oil in a deep, heavy skillet. Saute the garlic and onions until translucent, then add the tomatoes and cook until the skins come off and a sauce forms in the pan.
2. Add the broth, wine, beans, and spices (except the cayenne) to taste. The beans will absorb a good amount of the seasonings, so be generous - especially with the cumin and pepper. Leave the bay leaf in the sauce to simmer.
3. Heat a small amount of oil in another skillet. Rinse the fish under cold running water, and dust with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the fish one or two fillets at a time, then cook for about 5 minutes on both sides, or until it flakes easily with a fork at the densest point. Sprinkle with cayenne and lemon juice and transfer to a warm oven.
4. When the sauce is cooked down and thickened, remove the bay leaf and ladle the sauce into wide soup plates or shallow bowls. Serve the fish over the sauce, and garnish with lemon wedges.
People often turn to eating more seafood when they are ready to take better care of themselves and their families through diet. Low-fat and -cholesterol preparations can increase those benefits, and can be simple for novice seafood cooks. Baking is a great way to get started, and is fool-proof as long as you take care to follow a few simple guidelines.
1. Sear it first. If you have a nice thick fillet of halibut or salmon, for example, you want to keep as many of the natural juices inside as you can. You don’t want to fry the fish, but heating a tiny amount of oil in a heavy skillet and then quickly searing the fish on both sides can help reduce drying in the oven, and adds a nice touch of flavor, especially if you’ve dusted the fillet in herbs or salt and pepper.
2. Coat it. The only thing that can really go wrong with baked fish is drying and toughening. One way to avoid this is to cover the fish in some kind of sauce or glaze while it’s in the oven - mayonnaise is a common choice, as it brown nicely and adds a creaminess to the crisped edges of the fish. Try low-fat varieties if you’re on a stricter diet. Other choices include creamy salad dressings, steak marinades, and a carpet of thin lemon slices.
3. Steam it. Another variation on baked fish is foil-steaming. This is particularly great for whole fish such as trout or snapper. Clean, gut, and score the fish, rinse it well in cold water, and then season - garlic, herbs, lemons, soy sauce, ginger, scallions, brown sugar, or chilies are all great additions. Place the fish on a large piece of aluminum foil, and then wrap the ends of the foil up, folding them together to create a sealed pouch. Put the whole pouch in the oven to bake. This technique is very low fat, and can be done in a matter of minutes.
4.Semi-poach it. I rarely bake fish without surrounding it with some kind of liquid - usually a mixture of lemon juice and vegetable broth or white wine. Place the fillets in a glass baking dish and pour the liquid up to the edges of the fish - it shouldn’t cover the fillet, but will help keep it moist during the cooking process. I often use this method in conjunction with searing and coating.
5. Check on it frequently. Don’t be afraid to open the oven and stick a fork in the densest part of the fillet. The best way to ensure that fish is fully but not overly cooked is to keep an eye on it and trust your eyes over recipe cooking times. If it looks done, taste it - it probably is. Fish cooks quickly, and shouldn’t be left unattended for too long.
A haddock by any other name would smell as … fishy.But why is a halibut a halibut and a shrimp a shrimp? The origins of many of these names are as poetic as they are descriptive.
Halibut - means “holy flat fish,” (hali = holy, and butte = flat fish in old Germanic languages) probably from the practice of eating fish on holy days or for fasts that required the abstention from red meat or poultry, a practice whose ghost is still evident in the menus of diners: clam chowder on Fridays.
Salmon - while some theories trace this name to Celtic, others draw a line back to Latin and the word salmonem, possibly from salire, meaning “to leap.”This etymology muses on the strength of salmon swimming up rivers and jumping in the ocean: leaping.
Scallop - while English borrowed this word from the French escalope, meaning “shell,” the name goes back much further to an old Norse word: skalpr, meaning “sheath.”
Lobster - not the most appetizing of origins, this word comes from a corruption of the Latin locusta, meaning “locust” - and the Old English word loppe, which meant “spider.”
Shrimp - comes from an old Norse word meaning “a skinny person” - skreppa.
Tuna - one of Americans’ favorite fish, tuna, were called “tunny” up until the late 1800s, when Californians shifted the name.Originally, it came from a Greek word that meant “darter,” or “to dart along.”
Albacore have an even better story, with a name coming from Arabic via Portuguese: al bakara, “big tuna,” means literally “camels or young heifers,” referring to the large size of the fish.
Oysters share a history with bones, not surprisingly - both take their names from the Greek ostrakon, meaning “hard shell,” or “bone.”
Crab - as anyone who has handled a live one can understand, these creatures take their name from an Old English and Germanic verb krabben, or “to scratch or claw.”
With a plummeting economy, increased air pollution, threats of radical climate change, and peak oil just around the corner, many scientists are very busy looking for alternative energy resources.One possibility may come as a surprise, even for shore-dwellers: using sea algae as biofuel.
Scientists have been toying with the idea since the 1950s, but have begun taking a closer look at algae alternatives, as recent research has indicated that not only might algae produce a lot of oil – as much as 15 times more per acre than other plants used for the same purpose, such as corn – but it also seems that algae can grow in salt-, fresh-, or even contaminated water, and may even thrive on greenhouses gases, thus increasing its obvious ecological benefits.
Research is still in the very early stages, but work is being done at multiple sites to develop the economic feasibility of the process.Not only is seaweed a powerful source of nutrients, a rich compost, and a beneficial additive to a number of other health and beauty products.It may be an even more varied resource than we’d thought.
This is a quick and beautiful presentation for whole, high-quality fish. Serve it with steamed rice and a spicy vegetable stir-fry for a colorful and heart-healthy meal for guests.
2whole fish (about 2 lb each, such as rockfish or wild salmon), scaled, gutted and scored
1/2cupsliced scallions
2tablespoonsfresh ginger, julienned
1/2cupsoy sauce
1/4cuppeanut oil
1teaspoonsesame oil
1/2teaspoon brown sugar
2 T Thai sweet chili sauce
1. Heat oven to 450°. Cover two baking sheets with aluminum foil. Rinse whole fish under cold running water, and season well on both sides with salt and pepper. Place one fish on each sheet.
2. Whisk remaining ingredients in a bowl and spoon the sauce over each fish, making sure some of the sauce gets into the scores on the skin side.
3. Seal the fish inside the foil, making a pouch rather than wrapping it tightly.
4. Bake 10 minutes per inch of thickness of fish at its thickest part (typically 20 to 25 minutes for a 2-inch-thick fish). Remove foil and serve with juices.
Standardized health recommendations have stated for years that children and pregnant women should limit their intake of some seafood to two or three meals a week due to the potentially high levels of mercury found in fish and shellfish. According to the FDA website (last updated in 2006), those fish posing the highest risk of mercury exposure include shark, tilefish, mackerel king, and swordfish.
However, a recent report from the FDA has suggested that these recommendations may be too strict, and that increasing seafood intake may have other health benefits, particularly for those with a history of heart disease, which outweigh the risks of mercury.
These conflicting reports are creating a rift between the seafood industry, who praises the change in attitude, and the EPA and other environmental groups, who claim that the FDA lacks scientific evidence to back up its revised claims, and who have criticized the FDA for “play[ing] politics with the health of our families.” says Senator Barbara Boxer, D-California.
Fish consumers are advised to educate themselves regarding the risks of high mercury levels, most of which include potential harm to developing nervous systems, and can result in forms of brain damage or learning disabilities in children. Another important factor to be aware of is that not all fish contain levels of mercury above the suggested limit, and some fish process mercury in different ways, allowing it to be blocked from entering their flesh.
Seafood such as halibut, salmon, shrimp, scallops, and lobster are all considered safe for consumption, and should not be seen as mercury risks.
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