The Pacific Northwest is home to a number of precious culinary gems - some classic, like wild Alaskan seafood, Washington berries and apples, and Oregon cheeses and hazelnuts, and others more recently polished to take their places in the repertoires of cooks - Oregon pinot noir, for one, and the only certified organic saké brewed in the US. Local chefs have been combining these flavors for years to excellent effect, but the simple tricks behind Northwest flavors have yet to make their way into the mainstream. For those for whom saké is a hot, acrid bit of exotica choked down as a gesture to tradition at late-night sushi bars, here is a revelation: the good stuff is smooth, complex, easily as varied as wine, and is best enjoyed chilled. It also makes a great cocktail, and can be used for a number of different cooking purposes. This simple marinade combines some of the more interesting flavors in Northwest cuisine, and works great with everything from wild salmon steaks and halibut to scallops or shrimp skewers.
1 cup soy sauce (lighter is better in this case, to reduce sodium and allow other flavors predominance - good quality soy sauce is worth the small price difference)
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup saké - something on the sweeter end of the spectrum; use filtered saké - the cloudiness of nigori styles is less desirable for this application, (although it doesn’t hurt to experiment - there are locally-made flavored sakés that add an interesting dimension to this recipe, like “coconut lemongrass”)
3 or 4 large cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and minced
1 inch peeled fresh ginger, shredded or finely sliced
a handful of coarsely chopped cilantro
juice of 2 limes
optional: 1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce, 3 T hot sauce (Sriracha, Tabasco, Habanero), ground cumin or anise, cracked black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Rinse the fish well under cold running water, then nestle the fish into the marinade, making sure the flesh is entirely covered. Refrigerate for 2-6 hours, turning the fish occasionally, then remove from marinade and bake or grill as desired. If you use an outdoor grill, reserve part of the marinade to pour over the fish as it cooks - be prepared for flames, but the flavor will be outstanding.
Fried rice is one of those dishes that you can keep at the back of your mind and make on a few minutes’ notice with just about anything you have in your fridge. There are a few staple ingredients that I try never to go without - eggs, for instance, or fresh ginger and scallions - but experimentation should lead to great results, as long as the rice is fresh and you have a few spices on hand to make it interesting. Note that there is no soy sauce in this. In China, fried rice is made with salt, not soy, as many American cooks like to do it. Soy makes the rice soggy, and it often burns in the pan; salt has the same seasoning effect yet allows the rice to stay firm and the other flavors to combine.
This recipe works with almost any seafood: crab, shrimp, and scallops are all great additions. I like the smoked salmon because it allows you to use as little or as much as you have on hand and still get really big flavors out of the fish and the rest of the ingredients. This will serve three or four; it’s quick and simple enough to make for one - reduce amounts accordingly.
5-6 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and chopped - big chunks are nice
1/2 red bell pepper, julienned
2 cups shredded hearty greens, such as kale, chard, or bok choy
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and minced
4 or 5 scallions, cut into inch-long diagonals
1 cup frozen peas (optional)
2 eggs, beaten
allspice
nutmeg
cumin
ground chilies or chili flakes
seasoned rice vinegar
toasted sesame oil
olive oil
salt
1. Heat a splash of olive oil in a heavy wok or deep frying pan. Sautee the onions, peppers, greens, ginger, and garlic until the greens have wilted, the peppers are softened, and the onions are translucent.
2. In another, smaller skillet, scramble the eggs and season with salt, cumin and ground chilies.
3. Add the rice and scallions to the larger wok, along with healthy doses of allspice, nutmeg, cumin, and chilies. Fry quickly, breaking apart any clumps with a wooden spoon and turning the rice frequently, to combine the ingredients and heat it all through. Add the peas.
4. Flake the salmon into the rice and continue to cook; if it’s too dry, shake some rice vinegar over the top to keep it moist. Fling a few pinches of salt over the top and keep stirring. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
5. Add the eggs at the last, cutting them into the rice with your wooden spoon. Your final result should be light and well-mixed, not soggy or clumpy. Drizzle with toasted sesame oil and serve.
Other nice add-ins include: shiitake mushrooms, minced dried brine shrimp, diced and steamed potatoes, broccoli crowns, or galangal root (remove before eating). A good dressing for on top includes equal parts Thai fish sauce and rice vinegar, plus sliced fresh red chilies and a spoonful of brown sugar. Try it!
One evening, I wanted to fix shrimp, but found we were completely out of ingredients for my stand-by preparations.We had made margaritas the night before, and so had tequila, triple sec, and fresh limes already on hand.The result was surprising, delicious, and quick to make. This recipe was born of necessity and resourcefulness, but has the flair and complex flavors of a much more intentionally crafted dish.Serves about 3.
You will need:
1 lb. raw shrimp, shelled and deveined
5 limes; zest 2, then juice them all and toss the skins
half a bag of frozen peas
salt and pepper to taste
ground allspice
hot sauce
olive oil
butter
tequila
triple sec
side dish: rice, rice pilaf, quinoa or couscous work well
1.In a large bowl, toss the shrimp with half of the lime juice and a generous splash of olive oil.Add salt and pepper and the lime zest, and mix until the shrimp are evenly coated.Set them aside to marinate at room temperature for about 20 -30 minutes.
2.Use the marinating time to prepare a side starch, such as spiced rice.Cook rice as usual, but add 2 tsp cinnamon, cumin, ginger, or nutmeg (or any combination thereof) to the rice before boiling.Bay leaves, black pepper, saffron, vegetable boullion, or cardamom pods are good additions, too.
3.In a heavy frying pan, heat 1 or 2 T butter until it melts and browns.Add a healthy pour each of tequila and triple sec; if you have a measured spout, pour the tequila to a count of 5, and the triple sec to a count of 2.
4.Once the liquids come to a boil, add the shrimp and cook until pink and curled.Add the peas and cook until everything is heated through.Pour the remaining lime juice over the top.Season liberally with salt, pepper, and 1 tsp allspice.Adjust seasonings according to taste; hot sauce is a nice addition.
Serve with the sauce over spiced rice, with a light salad - avocados and sliced jicama are good - with a side of tortilla chips.
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