This is a hearty, earthy dish excellent for cold winter nights and for high-protein, low-fat diets (this preparation gets fewer than 24% of its calories from fat). Any thick fillet of white fish will work - try cod, rockfish, or sea bass - but halibut is perfect as it absorbs flavors from the sauce and isn’t too oily. Serve this for guests or family with a sliced, warm baguette and a simple green salad with a bite: add arugula, radicchio, and shaved pecorino romano cheese and dress with lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and herbs.
1. Heat a small amount of olive oil in a deep, heavy skillet. Saute the garlic and onions until translucent, then add the tomatoes and cook until the skins come off and a sauce forms in the pan.
2. Add the broth, wine, beans, and spices (except the cayenne) to taste. The beans will absorb a good amount of the seasonings, so be generous - especially with the cumin and pepper. Leave the bay leaf in the sauce to simmer.
3. Heat a small amount of oil in another skillet. Rinse the fish under cold running water, and dust with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the fish one or two fillets at a time, then cook for about 5 minutes on both sides, or until it flakes easily with a fork at the densest point. Sprinkle with cayenne and lemon juice and transfer to a warm oven.
4. When the sauce is cooked down and thickened, remove the bay leaf and ladle the sauce into wide soup plates or shallow bowls. Serve the fish over the sauce, and garnish with lemon wedges.
The Pacific Northwest is home to a number of precious culinary gems - some classic, like wild Alaskan seafood, Washington berries and apples, and Oregon cheeses and hazelnuts, and others more recently polished to take their places in the repertoires of cooks - Oregon pinot noir, for one, and the only certified organic saké brewed in the US. Local chefs have been combining these flavors for years to excellent effect, but the simple tricks behind Northwest flavors have yet to make their way into the mainstream. For those for whom saké is a hot, acrid bit of exotica choked down as a gesture to tradition at late-night sushi bars, here is a revelation: the good stuff is smooth, complex, easily as varied as wine, and is best enjoyed chilled. It also makes a great cocktail, and can be used for a number of different cooking purposes. This simple marinade combines some of the more interesting flavors in Northwest cuisine, and works great with everything from wild salmon steaks and halibut to scallops or shrimp skewers.
1 cup soy sauce (lighter is better in this case, to reduce sodium and allow other flavors predominance - good quality soy sauce is worth the small price difference)
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup saké - something on the sweeter end of the spectrum; use filtered saké - the cloudiness of nigori styles is less desirable for this application, (although it doesn’t hurt to experiment - there are locally-made flavored sakés that add an interesting dimension to this recipe, like “coconut lemongrass”)
3 or 4 large cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and minced
1 inch peeled fresh ginger, shredded or finely sliced
a handful of coarsely chopped cilantro
juice of 2 limes
optional: 1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce, 3 T hot sauce (Sriracha, Tabasco, Habanero), ground cumin or anise, cracked black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Rinse the fish well under cold running water, then nestle the fish into the marinade, making sure the flesh is entirely covered. Refrigerate for 2-6 hours, turning the fish occasionally, then remove from marinade and bake or grill as desired. If you use an outdoor grill, reserve part of the marinade to pour over the fish as it cooks - be prepared for flames, but the flavor will be outstanding.
Sometimes the most interesting creations are accidents. This recipe is not the one I intended to write, and yet it is now one of my favorites, a discovery I made thanks to the uniform bags I buy bulk goods in, and the remarkable resemblance of flour to powdered sugar. I was in a hurry, things got mixed up, and…voila! A new fish preparation is revealed. The combination of sweet and savory is found in nearly all world cuisines, and yet gives unexpected depth to this dish. If you’re not feeling adventurous, go ahead and use flour like I had originally intended. If you’re up for something new (and wonderful), follow this recipe.
You will need:
1 lb. (fresh or thawed) skinless, boneless white fish - halibut or cod are both excellent
a handful of powdered sugar
2 lemons, one zested
5 cloves of garlic, sliced
2 cups strong vegetable broth
1/2 cup coarsely chopped Greek olives; kalamatas or mixed green olives are good
salt, pepper, and cayenne
olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Rinse the fish under cold running water. Dust a plate with the powdered sugar, and then dredge the fish, coating it lightly but completely on both sides.
2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy, ovenproof skillet. Add the garlic and sautee until golden. Place the fish over the garlic and sear it well, so the sugar browns on both sides. Season liberally with salt, pepper, and a shake of cayenne (optional).
3. Before the fish is cooked through, remove the skillet from heat and douse the fish with the juice of two lemons. Toss the lemon wedges or halves in with the fish, and pour the broth into the pan until the level of the liquid comes most of the way up the fish.
4. Sprinkle with chopped olives and bake for 5-8 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through and flakes with a fork. Serve immediately.
I served this with rice that I’d steamed with lemon zest, oregano, and pepper; I caramelized an onion and added some cashews at the last minute to warm them, then covered the rice in the onions and nuts. We had a simple salad on the side: coarsely chopped greens with onions and gorgonzola cheese, and a sharp lemon vinaigrette. Warmed coriander pita finished it off, and was perfect for swabbing up the sauce from the fish.
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