Ivory King salmon is a delicacy of the Pacific Northwest – milder than the reddish varieties and rich in Omega-3s, it has the appearance of halibut and the flavor of wild Chinook (king) salmon. Once tossed aside as defective, this delicious fish has recently taken its rightful place at the head of the table, and is one of the most sought-after of fine seafoods. While no one knows for sure why the flesh is paler than common varieties, some speculate that the Ivory Kings produce an extra enzyme that allows their systems to metabolize carotenoids, the nutrients responsible for the ruddy color in most salmon.

Ivory king fillets Chanterelles

This recipe was originally developed by Chef Kevin Davis of the Oceanaire Seafood Room. It uses chanterelle mushrooms, another hard-to-find, seasonal wonder of Northwest cuisine. It’s well worth the hunt to find them; however, if price or timing makes chanterelles out of the question, any combination of rich woodland mushrooms can work: porcini and shiitake are good options.

You will need:

• 4 Ivory King steaks (request center cuts – 8 to 10 oz. each)
• ½ pound chanterelle mushrooms, sliced
• olive oil
• 1/3 c dry white wine
• 2 cups organic vegetable or chicken stock
• fresh Thyme, chopped – reserve some sprigs for garnish
• 2 small shallots, minced
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
• 3 T butter
• 1 lemon, zested and juiced
• salt and pepper
• more lemons for garnish

1. Preheat grill to medium-low. Rinse steaks under cold water, pat dry, and then brush them with olive oil. Dust them liberally with kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper, and place them on the grill. Cook to desired doneness, flipping once. Do not overcook – timing will depend upon thickness of the steaks. Salmon should be cooked through but not dry.

2. While the fish is grilling, heat a generous splash of olive oil in a heavy skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. Allow the mushrooms to cook slowly, without much stirring – they should begin to caramelize. Turn the mushrooms and brown on both sides. Then, strain off the liquid, reserving it in a bowl, and set the mushrooms aside.

3. Return the pan to the heat and add 1 T of butter; once it melts, add the shallots and garlic and sautee. Add the thyme, then remove from heat and deglaze the pan with the white wine.

4. Return the pan to the heat and allow the wine to reduce by half. Add the stock and allow the liquids to reduce again, to sauce consistency.

5. Add the mushrooms to the pan, along with the mushroom juices and the remainder of the butter, and finish with lemon juice and zest. Swirl well and be sure the chanterelles are well coated with the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

6. Place the salmon on a large serving platter or plate them individually. Divide the mushroom ragout between the filets and cover the fish with the mixture. Garnish with lemons and thyme and serve.

(Ivory king photo and Chanterelle photo links.)

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The Pacific Northwest is home to a number of precious culinary gems - some classic, like wild Alaskan seafood, Washington berries and apples, and Oregon cheeses and hazelnuts, and others more recently polished to take their places in the repertoires of cooks - Oregon pinot noir, for one, and the only certified organic saké brewed in the US. Local chefs have been combining these flavors for years to excellent effect, but the simple tricks behind Northwest flavors have yet to make their way into the mainstream. For those for whom saké is a hot, acrid bit of exotica choked down as a gesture to tradition at late-night sushi bars, here is a revelation: the good stuff is smooth, complex, easily as varied as wine, and is best enjoyed chilled. It also makes a great cocktail, and can be used for a number of different cooking purposes. This simple marinade combines some of the more interesting flavors in Northwest cuisine, and works great with everything from wild salmon steaks and halibut to scallops or shrimp skewers.

You will need:

• 1 - 2 lbs. wild Alaskan seafood: salmon, halibut, rockfish, scallops, shrimp - you choose
• 1 cup soy sauce (lighter is better in this case, to reduce sodium and allow other flavors predominance - good quality soy sauce is worth the small price difference)
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup dark brown sugar
• 1/2 cup saké - something on the sweeter end of the spectrum; use filtered saké - the cloudiness of nigori styles is less desirable for this application, (although it doesn’t hurt to experiment - there are locally-made flavored sakés that add an interesting dimension to this recipe, like “coconut lemongrass”)
• 3 or 4 large cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and minced
• 1 inch peeled fresh ginger, shredded or finely sliced
• a handful of coarsely chopped cilantro
• juice of 2 limes
• optional: 1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce, 3 T hot sauce (Sriracha, Tabasco, Habanero), ground cumin or anise, cracked black pepper

Original photo found here.