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Spring Seafood Stew

With winter melting away, many of us are looking for lighter meals that fit with springtime appetites (and pre-summer diets). This is a gorgeous, tasty preparation - introducing your local market’s spring vegetables, as well as adding warm flavors to beat the chill that lingers in the air. It has the low-fat and flavorful benefits of poaching seafood and using the liquid for seasoning. It also incorporates a simple technique called “monter au beurre,” which involves whisking a small amount of butter into the broth at the last minute, producing a classic, satisfying velvety finish.

You will need:

  • olive oil
  • 1 large leek, greens removed, thinly sliced
  • 3-5 garlic cloves, smashed, peeled, and chopped
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1 large can fat-free, low sodium chicken broth (or 2 cups low sodium vegetable broth)
  • 3/4 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 3/4 pound large sea scallops, cut in half horizontally
  • 2 T chilled butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped plum tomatoes
  • 1 T fresh tarragon, minced
  • 1 tsp grated lemon rind
  • 1/2 t salt
  • lots of freshly cracked black pepper
  • ground chili pepper to taste
1.  Heat the oil over medium in a large, heavy stock pot.  Add the leek and garlic and cook until tender.

2. Add the wine and broth, and bring the mixture to a simmer.  Stir in the shrimp and scallops, and bring quickly to a boil.  Immediately reduce heat, and simmer for around 3 minutes, or until shrimp are done.

3.  Remove the shrimp and scallops from the pot using a slotted spoon, and keep them warm on the side.  Bring the broth mixture to a boil again, and allow to cook for 4 minutes.  Reduce the heat to low, and add the butter, stirring constantly with a wire whisk until the butter is melted and a satiny sheen appears on the surface of the soup.

4.  Stir in the chopped tomatoes and remaining ingredients.  Taste and adjust the seasonings.

5.  Divide the seafood among 4 bowls, and cover with broth.  Serve immediately.

This goes beautifully with light, crusty French bread and a glass of rose; try serving it with a plate of steamed, chilled crudite: fresh asparagus, green beans, spring carrots and broccoli, with a small side of garlic aioli.

Tuna Medallions with Sesame Crust

The original recipe I found for this called for fresh ahi tuna - always a favorite;  for something a little different, go the route I did: try wild albacore instead.  I was able to buy a whole loin - solid meat, no waste - and have leftovers. This preparation is simple and quick, and looks beautiful on the plate. I have found a few similar versions online - this one comes from my own kitchen, and has the fewest steps and ingredients, although the sauce might take a little longer…got 5 minutes?

You will need:

  • 1 fresh albacore tuna loin
  • 1/2 cup sesame seeds
  • 1/2 cup black sesame seeds
  • sesame oil
  • salt
And for the sauce:
  • sesame oil
  • soy sauce
  • rice wine vinegar
  • 1 inch fresh ginger, minced
  • 4 or 5 garlic cloves, smashed, peeled, and finely chopped
  • crushed, dried red chilies
1. Rinse the tuna loin under cold running water, and then set it out on a plate to come to room temperature. Meanwhile, whisk together equal parts soy, vinegar, and sesame oil to make the sauce. Add the garlic, ginger, and chilies and taste. Adjust seasonings or proportions accordingly. Pour the sauce into some lovely serving bowl you’re dying to show off, and set it on the table - it’s ready to go.

2. Slice the tuna into inch-thick medallions, cutting perpendicular to the length of the loin. Shake a liberal dusting of salt over the fish; turn each piece over and repeat.

3. Combine the sesame seeds in a bowl and mix them together with your hands. Then, dredge each tuna medallion in the seeds so that it is entirely coated on every side.

4. Heat a heavy splash of sesame oil in a skillet to medium high, and sear the tuna medallions, turning them once and taking care not to knock off the sesame crust. Cook only a couple of minutes - tuna should be warmed through but not cooked all the way; test one piece by cutting it in half - the color change should stop toward the center. Blot each piece dry on paper towels.

5. Serve immediately with the sauce either drizzled over the top or on the side.


We had ours with buttery wasabi mashed potatoes and blanched bok choy sauteed with black vinegar, soy sauce and salt.

Halibut over White Bean Ragout

This is a hearty, earthy dish excellent for cold winter nights and for high-protein, low-fat diets (this preparation gets fewer than 24% of its calories from fat).  Any thick fillet of white fish will work - try cod, rockfish, or sea bass - but halibut is perfect as it absorbs flavors from the sauce and isn’t too oily.  Serve this for guests or family with a sliced, warm baguette and a simple green salad with a bite: add arugula, radicchio, and shaved pecorino romano cheese and dress with lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and herbs.

You will need:

  • 4 halibut fillets (no skin or bones, 6 oz. each)
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and chopped
  • 1/2 small onion, thinly sliced
  • 5 ripe plum tomatoes, diced
  • 1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 large can cannellini beans
  • 1 lemon - half wedged, half juiced
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • hot sauce - habanero, Tabasco, or Sriracha
  • bay leaf
  • cumin
  • cayenne
  • oregano
  • salt and pepper
  • olive oil

1.  Heat a small amount of olive oil in a deep, heavy skillet.  Saute the garlic and onions until translucent, then add the tomatoes and cook until the skins come off and a sauce forms in the pan.

2.  Add the broth, wine, beans, and spices (except the cayenne) to taste.  The beans will absorb a good amount of the seasonings, so be generous - especially with the cumin and pepper.  Leave the bay leaf in the sauce to simmer.
3.  Heat a small amount of oil in another skillet.  Rinse the fish under cold running water, and dust with salt and pepper on both sides.  Sear the fish one or two fillets at a time, then cook for about 5 minutes on both sides, or until it flakes easily with a fork at the densest point.  Sprinkle with cayenne and lemon juice and transfer to a warm oven.
4.  When the sauce is cooked down and thickened, remove the bay leaf and ladle the sauce into wide soup plates or shallow bowls.  Serve the fish over the sauce, and garnish with lemon wedges.

 

Simple Sauces: Piccata

When it comes to seafood, often simplest is best - quick and easy cooking techniques ensure that fish retains its natural flavor and keeps it from becoming overcooked or dry. Pan sauté any thin fillet – halibut, swordfish, tuna, salmon, sole, tilapia – or even lobster meat or scallops, and serve drizzled in piccata, a classic Italian sauce that shows off the succulence of fish oils and balances them with sea-salty brine. With just a couple of ingredients that you can keep on hand at all times, you can have a light and yet robustly-flavored meal ready in a matter of minutes.

You will need:

  • 4 fish fillets – try halibut or swordfish
  • handful of flour (this can be omitted for gluten-free diets), poured onto a plate
  • olive oil
  • 3 T butter
  • 4-5 shallots, minced
  • ½ lemon, thinly sliced
  • ¼ cup white wine or dry vermouth
  • 1-2 T capers
  • salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1. Heat a little olive oil and a tablespoon of butter in a heavy skillet over high heat. Rinse the fish in cold running water, dust each side with salt and pepper, and dredge the fillets in the flour.

2. When the oil is hot, gently place two of the fillets in the skillet, sautéing until golden and then turning them over and browning on both sides. Remove from heat and keep warm in the oven while you cook the second two fillets the same way.

3. Pour the used oil and any bits from the skillet and return it to the heat. Add 1 tablespoon of butter and allow it to melt. Add the shallots and 4 or 5 lemon slices, sautéing until the shallots turn golden and translucent. Pour in the wine or vermouth, and stir briskly with a wooden spoon or small whisk. Remove the lemon slices, and place them over the fish fillets.

4. Add the rest of the butter to the pan, along with the capers. Let the sauce thicken, and add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately with crusty bread to mop up leftover sauce. A crisp green salad and orzo cooked with chilies and saffron make nice accompaniments.

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